Michael Van der Ham continued in pursuit of perfecting his fascination with forms of deconstruction and pattern in his AW’14 collection. Inspired by the collage spreads of the 1960s mag Intro he showcased a wave of groovy illustrative prints, openwork lace and applique designs on structured columnar shifts, cocktail dresses, pencils, jumpers and granny-chic coating.
Black, grey and navy provided a neutral canvas for bursts of vibrant pink, orange and yellow. The singular option in trousers manifest in a cropped brocade bouquet-print, while dresses and skirts enveloped the majority of runway time. Intermittent wool jumpers and cotton oxford shirting were casual interludes and held promise for down dressage.
Like Burberry SS’14, lace played a prominent role in dresses and coats. It was layered over organza shifts, applied to matching separates and used as accenting in organza cocktail dresses embroidered with bustles of flower shapes in silk threading and sequin accents.
De-construction of cut was toned this season with soft velvet tops on silk pieces and skirts with loose-falling hems. Moreover, Van der Ham’s physical deconstruction process (deemed ‘collage’ by many critics) was replaced by a visual mode of challenging anatomical subversion through fabric print and texture. A grand illusion of polished trickery and, perhaps, a smooth transition from his older cut-and-paste rhythm.
Review written by Cody James (@roguing_vogue) for Katie Chutzpah blog.