Creative director Joanna Sykes presented a tranquil collection for Nicole Farhi AW’14, assuaging uncertainty surrounding the label’s recent fiscal troubles. Tactile themes of ‘protection’ and ‘sanctuary’ were translated through oversized trousers and joggers in cashmere and silk, fur-trimmed woven jackets and spacious Cyclone bombers detailed with lichen lizard.
The only snug-fitting silhouettes appeared in wool wrap dresses layered on silk tunics and a selection of fitted patchwork jumpers. Heedfulness over controlled flexibility of body movement was considered in the most acute details: coats and jackets bound with ample straps, waistlines mounted with elastic synching and commodious cuts with defrayed sensitivity toward confined style.
The colour scheme provided equal measure of halcyon release, appropriating powder blue, grey and black with touches of camel and sea-foam green. The calm palate and warm repose in design is a comforting image for the label, which shocked the fashion community last July upon reporting a collapse of over £5m in operating losses.
Since being acquired by Maxine Hargreaves-Adams (daughter of the founder of Matalan), the label has wasted no time in mulling over strategy for brand reconstruction. Currently, administration has its eyes set on immediate growth; developing plans for new fittings and packaging in luxury concessions, a diffusion line for House of Fraser and the search for a global chief executive.
Sykes has assuredly found a remedy for the time being. Seeking solace in the tangible and emotive powers of clothing, her AW’14 offers a homeopathic regimen of sustainable quality and distingué poise to the fastidious consumer.
Review written by Cody James (@roguing_vogue) for Katie Chutzpah blog