Lou Dalton is one of London’s premiere perfectionists in the area of non-fussed menswear. Her SS15 deconstructed the label to its core by challenging traditional tailoring with the appendage of pockets turned inside out, unzipable sleeving, patchwork and a spread of textured fabrics (cotton pique, mesh, nylon and dry wool).
While AW14 was inspired by the rustic charm of farmhand-casual work wear, SS15 focused on translating this vision to urban gentry with greater appeal. A collection of blazers, fitted shorts, casual jackets and macs returned the label to its love of English-heritage inspired sportswear.
Relaxed staples (like the baseball shirt and pointed-lapel jacket) referenced the success of earlier collections to offer continuity in design. Vests and pseudo-mac vests were paired over abstract floral-pattern embossed knits and shorts to harvest a formal tonality.
Grey, navy and white were jolted with vibrant red, salmon and powder blue. If one was to classify the look among other labels, it would fit on the edgier side of Farhi, Pringle and Raeburn– a balance between structure, precision cutting and square fit.
Delight was in the slightest details: unzipping sleeves fitted to vanish beneath shoulder lines, proportioned flapping pockets, elasticated bands at the back of jackets and an overall emphasis on framing the torso as a definitive silhouette. Literally turned inside-out, Dalton’s SS15 is a visceral reflection on the label’s past, present and future. We can’t wait to see the future progeny of Dalton’s fruitful labours.
Catwalk review by Cody James (@roguing_vogue) for Katie Chutzpah blog