Matthew Miller’s statement-based collections never cease to make us ponder socio-political issues. This season he brought to the table an interpretation on war and conflict with armour-inspired clothing in the most ‘Big City’ fabric: behold, the pinstripe.
Entitled ‘Introversion’, research for the collection took into consideration uniforms of servicemen and post-conflict emotion, memorial and commemoration. Miller spent time researching the history of uniforms to consider their use (protection, utility, group heterogeneity) before embarking on the construction, or deconstruction, of his designs.
Models were decorated with arrangements of flowers fixed around necks and wrists, adding an element of death and commemoration. Patched short-sleeve jackets, sleek bombers and shredded-fabric vests were paired with knee-length fitted shorts and un-tucked shirts.
Double denim also made an appearance with a two-pocket jacket and extra-long trouser. Coats with the slogans ‘Anti’ ‘War’ ‘Social’ ‘You’ added the element of Miller’s staple anarchic wordplay, while the simplicity in contrast between navy, grey and white provided stark formality. Overall, the collection symbolised a broken uniform — dishevelled to a certain degree, but balanced with structural poise.
Catwalk review written by Cody James (@roguing_vogue) for Katie Chutzpah blog.