Roksanda is the class act that just keeps on giving. Ilincic manages to combine edginess with complete unadultered luxury and in this show, multi-coloured fur swathes, wraps and muffs were as big as the colours. Aubergine, pagan orange, electric blue and fuchsia. Pattern and texture rich, this was as close to wearing contemporary art as a woman could strive and ventured nearer her newly re-designed and structured brand identity. Chic with modern art leanings.
Models strode a swirly, multi-coloured catwalk built a metre off the ground so that the audience looked up and recalled much earlier catwalks of the 80s when it was the ‘thing’ to have high rise catwalk stretches. As if a woman needs that to be noticed in Ilincic’s distinctive multi-coloured, textured and layered swathes. Roksanda’s bold vision saw Patrick McGoohan ‘Prisoner’ type purple and orange all-in-one’s, organic overdresses worn over purple chiffon and floor sweeping great coats, all in clashing colours and all tightly belted with organic blob silver belts. This was wearable topography.
Roksanda’s woman is no kooky type, though, preferring her fur as bold and noticeable as her personality. The finesse of the luxury furs contrasted against the unfinished quilting hems of the wool skirts and coats, only highlighted that this was art statement dressing. There were even huge contrived distressed slashes to further emphasise texture. Styled with coloured ankle socks and shoes, Ilincic took it a step further. This reductionist emphasis on organic texture, swirl and colour can only be appreciated together in its holistic vision.
And when Roksanda does black, she does it best. Which again is irony. As Roksanda’s black is surely the chicest of them all. Layered black, with texturized sequins set against sheer panels and worn over differing separates. These pieces will sell.
If there is any criticism, it’s to emphasise that Rokasanda tends to be head-to-toe dressing and styling. To rip it apart and take it to the normal consumer investment of buying one key piece is to detract from Roksanda’s holistic approach to wearing her look and its ethos. Which is just as well that Roksanda’s customer bases is comprised of extremely affluent women who veer on the side of difference. Making a statement that theirs is not the norm Russian billionaire partner. Shame really. As the direction, vision and use of carefully constructed and layered colour worn as a whole, is what fashion needs at the moment.
Catwalk imagery kindly supplied by www.style.com. Please click on the link for further imagery.