Still Sexy After All These Years–Antonio Berardi AW’15

by Katie on February 23, 2015

 

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Not many designers can credit Gwyneth Paltrow’s derriere for raising their stock, but Antonio Berardi’s career hit a purple patch after the now consciously-uncoupled Mrs Martin chose to wear a sheer-panelled Berardi dress to the ‘Iron Man 3’ premiere. That dress, with its flattering cut, peplum, and kimono sleeves, not only showed the world that Berardi was still in business, but also that he’s still relevant.

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So many times, accomplished designers are shunted down the London Fashion Week schedule to make way for overhyped rookies, but when that Great White Hope turns out to be not so great (and I’m looking at you, Jonathan Anderson and Christopher Kane), it’s time to reassess established talent.

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Berardi’s Autumn/Winter 2015 collection is so incredibly adroit that it would be narrow-minded to write the designer off as just another moneyed West London label. Berardi may have twenty years on his contemporaries, but his clothes are far from outmoded.

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Firstly, the fabrics; opulent silks and Oriental floral jacquards in a youthful yet rich palette, punctuated with bright pink, lilac, red and gold. Inspired by a tree growing on the construction site of the Frank Gehry-conceived Louis Vuitton Foundation in Paris, the collection features plenty of architectural folds, fripperies, and drapes, at times recalling the work of celebrated Nineties designer Romeo Gigli.

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Soigné, sculpting cocktail frocks rub shoulders, quite literally, with luxurious daywear, lean suits in matchy chintz, and longer, languid gowns which fall in frills to the floor. The paperbag waist, seen at Jackie JS Lee, also makes a reappearance, but this time neatly tailored and tucked at the top of slim trousers.

Still hot (in every sense of the word), Antonio Berardi is a creative force to be reckoned with.

Review written by Lee Clatworthy (@bombfashion) for www.katiechutzpah.com

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