Dries Van Noten’s Art School Madame of Contrasts–AW15

by Katie on March 4, 2015

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Set in the gloriously opulent and plush Hotel De Ville with its French renaissance architecture and Baroque showiness, this was going to be a show to wow an audience into submission. And with that we have the juxtaposition. Although Dries Van Noten is known for his opulence, his clash of fabrics and textures, his loud colours that he somehow manages to tame with the crack of a couturier’s whip, Dries is quite the master of ostentatious understatement. Quite like the women who choose to wear his collections, Van Noten’s intelligence and artistic bent shines through.

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This was a show that rustled brocades as well as smoothed feathers.  The contrasts in style and in womanhood were evident from the loose style, brocade combat wearing types to the slender column dresses. There were slouchy macs paired with three quarter length cut-offs contrasted with shaggy jackets, huge corsages and glam swagged and pulled quilted brocade over shorts.  This was art mistress as temptress in leather gloves meets cool business creative. Like the collection, his legion of followers will dip in and dip out of this collection. Not unlike the high street stores who will vie to replicate the many serious selling pieces including the skirt/trousers combo (also seen at Armani), draped kimono sleeved bomber jacket and shaggy gilet or coat.

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Van Noten didn’t stop the glamour and the anticipation of evening wear. Chunky midnight blue paillettes chinked over silk and even appeared on tied & belted Macs.

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What DVN showed he can do is merge colliding worlds with the clashing wants and needs of a thoroughly modern, confident woman who values vision over sex appeal. And what is more sexy than style paired with intelligence?  Dries has quite clearly mastered this genre.

Catwalk images courtesy of www.style.com

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