Oh how we’ve missed you John Galliano. Like a shot of A grade drug to the arm, the first RTW Maison Margiela was all sorts of wonderful.
Galliano deftly manages to simultaneously defy and entrance. Here, were the smacks in the face of genius that Paris has missed for so long. From his misplaced tainted heroines he so worships to the deftly defined cuts that transformed Margiela’s trademark off-beat niche style. From the out-there lurid trend influencing make-up to the styling, that when broken down, showed re-worked masterpieces from his past with enough Galliano to remain distinctive, majestically and overall, quite quite beautiful.
The long, lean coats with the scrunched gloves and huge corsages tied at the neck, the bias cut sheer dresses over lace bodysuits, the appliqued velvet jackets and goat hair skirts, jackets and detailing on silk chiffon, this was power 1930s for a new age.
Now, there are some* (*and I’m looking at you various fashion twitter feed lines) who concentrated on the rushed Misplaced Madwoman ‘Ministry of Silly Walk’ shenanigans that had selected models hugging clothes too tightly, grimacing & rushing like a bat-out-of-hell down the runway. But this is the theatre, darlings. THIS is what Galliano does best. Creates a context, a show and an ethos for the mood to be entered into. Plus, he grabs all the headlines for all the right reasons. Philistines can go to hell. I’d suggest, here, that all who don’t get this don’t deserve their more-by-luck-than-by-understanding front row seats, but hey, don’t ask me…I only worked with the man at the beginning of his career.
This show set standards in how to return classily (from the eve and confidence of his couture showing in London in January), with effect and with spell binding indifference to his detractors. There’s a part of Galliano (still at loggerheads with Dior) in Maison Margiela that says ‘F**k You Haters’ and that is why we love him. With this show and with the hint of what’s to come, Galliano plays it like a masterful Pavlov’s dog. He has us salivating for more. It can’t come soon enough.
Catwalk imagery kindly supplied by www.style.com