When Vivienne Westwood steps outside her leftfield comfort zone, she shines.
This was one such show that showed Vivienne Westwood is still relevant and can create ‘a look’ for the season. In this case, HUGE oversized jackets paired with everything from crop trousers to fringed or hobbled skirts and balloon pants. The proportion has just shifted and Westwood is at the forefront. The rub is, Dame Viv’s vision looks equally well on men as on women. A point she hammers home with her men, not so much in cross-dress, but looking regal and manly in spite of the bustiers, the bundling and the ruching. The theme of the show was ‘Unisex’ after all.
Styling wasn’t too laboured with all the right touches….some smacking of JPG in his heyday. ie fringing over pinstripe. However, this was a new light and motivated step for the label. Big new breed power jackets and even bigger hats and print clashes.
Sure, there were still the slogans (‘Pony’, ‘Showtime’ etc) and the jibes associated with classic Westwood – plaid (check), World End style print (check), beautifully draped corseting (check) but this was a show that seemed confident, clear and very, very much en pointe. Big can be beautiful. Gwendoline Christie as Westwood central casting personified this.