The thing is, fashion and politics used to come hand in elegantly gloved hand. Think back to the Eighties and Katharine Hamnett’s slogan T-shirts, Comme Des Garcons’ Hiroshima chic or even Margaret Thatcher’s power-suits, so emblematic of The Establishment. Even Franco Moschino, long before Jeremy Scott turned his house into an outpost of Mattel, was well known for his sly digs at current affairs and the frocknoscenti.
Somewhere along the way, possibly during the Nineties when labels became Superbrands and the bottom line reigned supreme, we lost of all of this. However, some British designers are putting politics back on the agenda, and London’s angriest young man is Royal College of Art graduate Matthew Miller.
Miller’s collections are often imbued with commentary on the modern human condition; the despondence of youth, the poverty trap faced by younger generations ignored by the Government and their disenfranchisement with the political process. This sets the designer apart from his contemporaries, where the most Instagrammed item of clothing during London Collections: Men is a Disney sweatshirt.
By the time you read this article most of us will have voted in one of the most closely fought General Elections in years, which is what makes Matthew Miller’s ‘Born to Fail’ collection so cogent. Harking back to his Autumn/Winter 2013 offering, the capsule collection of T’s, sweatshirts, and the perennial symbol of rebellion, the leather biker jacket, features an anarchic reimagining of that season’s central slogan.
The ‘Born to Fail’ collection is available now from www.matthewmillermenswear.com
Article written by Lee Clatworthy (@bombfashion) exclusively for www.KatieChutzpah.com