If Donatella took a leftfield, festival glam-luxe approach to couture, then it was down to Giambattista Valli (inspired by the inherent eccentricity of Peggy Guggenheim and Talitha Getty) to bring it back to a more refined vision of modern couture where the pointers were on structure and tulle – peeking out on hips, from slits and heavy trails of ruffle like a Barbie meets Disney bride by way of Paris atelier.
Valli is the name for ultimate cocktail to red-carpet entrance and this couture collection played with an abstract version of the little black dress (worn on own or over slim trousers) with tulle ruffles, ostrich feathers and stiff silk organza. There was distinct air of late ‘60s/early ‘70s ultimate couture hippie, more in the styling than the garms. Huge round specs, large Indian style drop earrings and the 2-piece pant suite in cut out lace and emerald green sparkle velvet lurex met the more conventional Valli of the sweeping, one-shouldered red-carpet gown.
A variety of very modern ditsy florals were reinterpreted in ultra modern couture ensembles. Ruffle peplums from the hip, midi slim trouser 2-piece combos and dresses over trousers all gave Valli’s current couture customer variety and choice. To wear as a look or to tone down, depending on the mood or event. Clever.
Catwalk images used by kind permission of www.style.com