Gieves Spring/Summer 2016. Our Man in Havana

by Katie on September 2, 2015

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There are many celebrated streets in our capital, but none epitomises the word “heritage” more than Savile Row. Every gentleman has a tailor, and every tailor has a story to tell. Gieves’ story dates back to the late 18th century, supplying custom-made uniforms to British naval officers and, from there, dressing three generations of our royal family through their thriving bespoke tailoring business. The firm is steeped in tradition – and traditions can sometimes be difficult to break with.

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This fact hasn’t passed Gieves’ creative director Jason Basmajian by, but like everyone, he’s also seen London change immeasurably over the last few years. Savile Row’s archetypal pinstripe-and-bowler-hat customer has been replaced by young Russian oligarchs, Saudi princes and French ex-pats. Gieves has had to undo its top button, loosen its tie and lose the slightly fusty image.

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So what Basmajian brings us for Spring/Summer 2016 is a younger, more streamlined, smart-yet-casual Gieves, still exuding plutocratic assurance, yet far more suitable for the global jetset. The outlook may be Mojitos by a sun-drenched beach bar, but the quality and execution is the faultless Gieves standard.

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An organic palette of lush, verdant greens, and burnished brick reds and rusts adds an equatorial edge to the stone and navy; chamois-soft suede rubs against feather-weight summer wools, silk and tactile linens. Narrow lapels, patch pockets and trousers cropped to just above the ankle carry a modern, sporty appeal.

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Gieve’s spiritual home, No. 1 Savile Row, has also evolved, decadently decked out to resemble a luxurious clubhouse; an ideal setting for the tailor’s on-the-nose overhaul, including a collaboration with upmarket resortwear brand Orlebar Brown. Whilst the other denizens of The Row languish in habitual decrepitude, Gieves is looking forward to a brighter future. ​

Review written by Lee Clatworthy (@bombfashion)

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