Givenchy upcamped and showed in New York in preparation, no doubt, for the opening of the latest Givenchy store in the city where so many of Riccardo Tisci’s Givenchy clad celebs reside. It seemed fitting, then, that Tisci tastefully (what else?) choose to show a large collection ode not only to the triumphs from his last 10 years at the House (and there are many) but also to honour the 14th anniversary of 9/11 with the setting, the restrained mood, the black, white, gold and nude tones and the religious music and contemplative feel of the show.
As fashion goes, this was a spectacle and a ‘moment’. Not the loud applause, bravo, electrifying type of McQueen or Galliano at Dior, but one nevertheless as it spotlights Tisci’s ever growing ability to influence – what red carpet stars wear, the AAA in-crowd devotees, his expanding menswear line (there was a LOT of tailoring in there) and, it appears, the high street. Zara is bound to be full of Givenchy ode pieces and layering next season (and I for one will be ever so thankful).
Tisci sent out a restrained but beautifully cut and thoughtful collection that, like lots of things in life, looks simple to achieve but actually, isn’t. The proportions, the degrade lace dresses and camisoles, the latter worn long over razor sharp cut floaty trousers, paired with kimonos, long lapels and trailing satin straps. Waistcoats and cross-bandeau chiffon tops that exposed midriffs paired with delicate lace skirts, breath-taking couture fringed dresses worn with face masks and jewellery and punched leather pieces cut so finely that they fell like silk, that brought forward a new strata of religious iconic haute fashion. This is the master at work. Creating truly feminine modernism for legions of super wealthy women. I’m pinning my hopes on Zara taking note.