It’s always a bit of an oddity when a newish label suddenly causes a fashion-quake. The latter happens not only when a heart stopping once once-in-a-blue-moon fashion-happening show defies all odds and leaves the fashion professionals breathless. But also when a new, hip, label that no one was quite expecting causes more than just a fashion ripple but a surge. Editors turn up wearing the clothes, there’s a general unspoken of nod of agreement that ‘yes. these are definitely on point’ and when the styling of the show causes a whole mood of optimism and re-invented newness. This is the energy jolt we were looking for.
It happened this season at Vetements. Those tweets and images started rolling in from a less than swanky Chinese restaurant in a far from salubrious area of Paris during the most glamorous of fashion cities and the mood was more of London cool. Strong models, stronger clothes and absolutely cool styling mixing large scale Mannish jackets and tuxedos, MA-1 jackets, 30’s style t-dresses, vintage style slips, oversized hoodies and long, slouchy cowboy boots. This show had attitude by the truckload. And it’s already seeping into the fashion cognoscenti’s collective consciousness.
Demna and Guram Gvasalia and their team may just be responsible for re-working the plasticised apron as a ‘must-have’ for SS’16 as well as ‘those’ incredible Chinese satin print slouch Cowboy wader style boots. The leather, too, was a star feature. Vetements may have funked it up more than the Matrix with long slit leather skirts, ‘70’s style coats and street-styling.
Is it any surprise that Demna Gvasalia is ex Maison Martin Margiela? Another house where a fashion genius is being allowed creative free rein? It seems that the maverick houses may just save Paris from an overdose of conventionality, commerciality and celebrity by concentrating on the truly innovative and creative.
Catwalk images kindly supplied by www.vogue.com