You can always judge a man by his shoes, and Christopher Bailey’s Burberry men are all wearing suede penny loafers and trainers this Autumn. This was a hint that the Chief Creative Officer/Chief Executive Officer for the nearest thing Britain has to a fashion superpower had loosened up a little, previous fixations with the Sixties and Seventies cast aside for something young, fresh and new.
But how do you solve a problem like Burberry’s heritage, once a Unique Selling Point, now sometimes threatening to muffle any forward momentum? In a field of jostling heritage players, all with their stories to tell, how can Burberry differentiate itself?
Bailey plays with us, hinting at the brand’s extensive history; an oversized house check here, an archive overcoat there, the reddy browns, browny reds, beige and black of the palette also redolent of Burberry past, but this is mostly a modern collection for a modern man’s wardrobe. We’ll skate over the shaggy Yeti coat – which is perhaps a bit more Kanye than the average Burberry customer can handle.
Where Burberry’s Autumn/Winter 2016 collection excels is in its casual separates. A white-trimmed track top. Easy, washed-out denim. Whereas previous proposals have hinted at a specific archetype (usually seen on the front row, all public school manners and RADA training), there is an everyman likeability to the louche nonchalance of Christopher Bailey’s boys.
Review by Lee Clatworthy (@bombfashion) exclusively for www.katiechutzpah.com
Catwalk images supplied by kind permission of www.vogue.com