A Very Mixed Bag at Gucci AW’16

by Katie on February 24, 2016

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I’m kinda’ seeing the relevance of see-it buy-it now shift to show culture when seated in a chill factor temperature and viewing the latest Gucci AW’16 collection as it livestreamed.

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Only Gucci and Kering’s CEO Francois-Henri Pinault is in favour of maintaining the status quo. See it, buy it in 6 months. Even if you have the squillions of mullah or the funds to remortgage it would take to purchase even one ensemble. By that time, you may have had time to decide on the gloriously diffuse collection that contained a pure bubble-gum pink fur ensemble (tick) or the red brocade culottes suit (tick) or the ‘Eyes of Laura Mars’, long-line mink worn  over red/white ‘70s geometric skirt suit (v big tick).

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Each and every look ran the gamut of colour. An explosion of contrast. A glorious insult to the eyes and a fashion ed’s dream. Those editorial pages will be brimming with Allesandro Michele’s wunder kleid

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Michele takes styling to the extreme and sometimes it works…and sometimes it doesn’t. Though a maximalist through and through, I’ve been reticent re Signor Michele. Loving his verve and his inspiration but often thinking it’s too chunkily executed and deliberately (not finely) honed and clashed. If you’re Gucci, the brand name of smooth (that Tom Ford seems to have ousted), you need to at least have some appearance of monied languid poise if not loucheness.

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Instead Michele’s new Gucci seems to be the very essence of an Ebay vintage shoppers dream. If she can style. And has the chutzpah. Late 60’s and early ‘70s references are churned out from the geometrics, the Chinoiserie (HUGE for AW16), the maxi florals with frills, balloon sleeves, pussy bows, vivid brocades. Hell. You could even spray paint a Gucci G on the back of your re-claimed denim jacket. It’s all there. In Gucci. As well as on Ebay. Go find.

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The sticking point is the shoes. When all else and your depleted wallet fails, at least you can opt for the shoes to help make your vintage sourced Gucci look seriously authentic. Only these huge platforms aren’t cutting it. Sure, there were Mary-Janes in there but…meh. And Gucci as we know survives on all that clunky, showy, double-G, snaffle wearing ‘It’ accessories line.  And that was the weakest part of the show.

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