With so many brands changing their business strategy, it’s hard to keep up these days. The frequent yawning gulf between the catwalk collection and the retailers’ offering is bad enough, but how do we ascertain when a collection is actually available? It started off at Burberry, which made pieces available immediately after the catwalk show. Prada prefers to leak product like a cracked jug, meaning every store has their cult-like customers hovering, like hungry osprey over a limping rabbit. Versus Versace is now all available to buy once the show has streamed. Moschino…well, has stuff you can buy, and stuff you can’t – yet. For blogging purposes I’m labelling this review Autumn/Winter 2016, but who knows?
Jeremy Scott, like Prada, is a cult in himself. Heavily influenced by Pop Art, Moschino’s Creative Director started out dressing a Who’s Who of high/lowlife, Britney, Paris and the like, before finding his winged feet at Adidas. Sometimes the inspirations are glaringly obvious popular culture totems; everyday cleaning products, Barbie, McDonald’s. But, with high fashion struggling to keep up with its faster high street competitors, we need to ask ourselves, does a company which retails handbags at over a grand need to be instant and disposable? Scott may liken himself to Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, the former designer of Iceberg, or even Franco Moschino himself, but the truth is that they were far more provocative, political and witty.
Moschino’s Autumn/Winter 2016(?) collection is a paean to British national treasures Gilbert & George who, if you’ve never heard of them (and why not?) specialise in grids of vibrant colour, often featuring models in anguished poses, along with other more challenging or scatological components. Scott uses various trompe l’oeil treatments to conjure up their confrontational style over a series of casual and sportswear looks which range from Roaring Success to Covent Garden Living Statue.
Whilst Scott has the permission of the artists, I wonder what they really think? Maybe they don’t care, Moschino will have paid them handsomely and they’ll be getting gently gin-soaked in their Spitalfields terrace. As for Jeremy Scott, I’m still waiting for him to create his own art instead of stealing from others.
Review written by Lee Clatworthy (@bombfashion) exclusively for www.katiechutzpah.com
Catwalk imagery supplied by kind permission of www.vogue.com