Design duo Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux at Dior seem to be doing a Vetements at Dior while hot-sitting at the helm. Which is to say, coming out with some new and much needed trend and proportion direction, as well as causing a degree of confusion.
Layering it on, sometimes too much, gave the collection an over-styled vibe when it’s aiming for its co-joined, hipper-than-though-twin description, directional. It’s always tough when the rules of a design house alter. Meier and Ruffieux (who both worked under Raf Simons) seem to be finding their Dior feet while eager to make their mark. Less elegant satin pointed stiletto and more heavy patent platform ankle boot. One-upmanship styling in the haute house yelled a ‘we-can-do-it-too’ sign to Demna Gvasalia at Balenciaga by way of Vetements.
Puffed sleeves and prints, lots of layering and juxtaposed fabric pairing, skirts over trousers, ribbon-like ties as detailing and chunky heels, say to the buyers, ‘please deconstruct this collection before placing an order’. Much better were the dresses and the tailored jackets, even if trying to be a bit too hard ultra-contemporary. Still, no one can say this design team haven’t made their mark even if they may soon be replaced by a more nameworthy creative director.