Matthew Miller Autumn/Winter 2018 – There’s a Riot Going On

by Katie on January 10, 2018

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Matthew Miller is probably the most exciting menswear designer working in London today, so it seems appropriate for his Autumn/Winter 2018 event to unofficially open this season’s London Fashion Week Men’s.

Always a step ahead of the pack, Miller eschewed the traditional catwalk show to present his latest collection as part of a three-hander music gig, featuring performers cast from digital platforms YouTube and Spotify.

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Like Calvin Klein creative director Raf Simons, Miller has always been fascinated by youth subcultures but, unlike Simons, the designer has always focused on the now, rather than youth and artistic movements of the past, by the creative energy fuelled by the rage against the corporate machine, and the sense of despair and nihilism felt by younger generations who are inheriting a world in which their place is repay the financial, environmental and political debts accrued by their parents and grandparents.

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Miller’s work has always been politically-charged but, this season, there is a palpable sense of anger. These are uniforms for urban warfare, with militaristic overtones, not just in palette but also in the utilitarian details. Silhouettes are sharper, cut close to the body. These are stealth clothes, their quiet precision deafening.

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Oversized scarves featuring the word ‘CONSENT’ drive the message home – we didn’t ask for this, how could you neglect this situation, is this the legacy we deserve? Tempers are rising, and this rightfully feels like Matthew Miller’s time.

Written by Lee Clatworthy exclusively for katiechutzpah.com

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