Menswear

Post Brexit Doom and The Dumbing Down of LFWM.

January 8, 2017

I didn’t attend LCM this season. Or should I say, I didn’t attend LFWM. And that’s part of the problem right there. Just as designers and brands have begun re-thinking their show strategy and the profusion of collections (which includes two RTW seasons, resort and either couture or bespoke for both mens and womenswear lines) […]

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Gucci Menswear Cruise 2017

May 22, 2016

I couldn’t let Alessandro Michele’s latest menswear outing pass without comment. Having been quite vocal about Gucci’s new direction, if you can call Michele’s particular brand of faux vintage “new”, I’ve had to eat my words. Not much, a bite-size portion of attrition. Apparently inspired by the English eccentricity, and Gucci’s forthcoming Cruise show in […]

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Burberry Menswear AW16–Thoroughly Modern

January 30, 2016

You can always judge a man by his shoes, and Christopher Bailey’s Burberry men are all wearing suede penny loafers and trainers this Autumn. This was a hint that the Chief Creative Officer/Chief Executive Officer for the nearest thing Britain has to a fashion superpower had loosened up a little, previous fixations with the Sixties […]

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Everybody’s Changing

November 16, 2015

Maybe it’s the fact that menswear is traditionally seen as the least exciting branch of fashion, or maybe we were so caught up in the revolving doors at large houses in the last few months, including Raf Simons walking out on Dior, or Alber Elbaz’s dramatic exit from Lanvin and the subsequent downing tools of […]

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Gieves Spring/Summer 2016. Our Man in Havana

September 2, 2015

There are many celebrated streets in our capital, but none epitomises the word “heritage” more than Savile Row. Every gentleman has a tailor, and every tailor has a story to tell. Gieves’ story dates back to the late 18th century, supplying custom-made uniforms to British naval officers and, from there, dressing three generations of our […]

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Generation X – Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2016

July 1, 2015

Marc Jacobs may have been fired from Perry Ellis for his now-infamous Grunge collection, but who knew that it would be so influential over two decades later? Not those Generation X slackers, the progenitors of the hipster pandemic, and who still refuse to GrowTFU and wear a suit. There are many things you can accuse […]

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Jungle Boogie – Balmain Menswear Spring/Summer 2016

June 30, 2015

It’s hard to imagine where the modern French fashion industry would be without American hip-hop. So beholden in fact that Paris stalwart Givenchy has just announced that it will show its Spring/Summer 2016 women’s collection during New York Fashion Week in September. Whilst Balmain creative director Olivier Rousteing eschews the straight-up streetwear homages oft seen […]

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Davy Jones’ Rocker – ALEXANDER McQUEEN Spring/Summer 2016

June 22, 2015

The indicators so far have been that many designers believe that Spring/Summer 2016 may be tough going financially. Commercial defaults such as military, safari, and sparse, minimal sports luxe have been rinsed dry and new ideas or trends woefully thin on the ground. More than that, where London Collections: Men once looked ground-breaking, the lack […]

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Back To The Future–JW ANDERSON Menswear Spring/Summer 2016

June 22, 2015

You can’t say Jonathan Anderson didn’t warn you. The obvious step from that Autumn/Winter 2015 women’s collection, which reminded me so much of Eighties Freemans catalogues and Winona Ryder’s ghastly nouveau stepmother in ‘Beetlejuice’, was always going to be flouncy Duran Duran/ Pierrot proportions – or should that be A Flock of Seagulls, given the […]

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LACED UP – BURBERRY PRORSUM MENSWEAR SPRING/SUMMER 2016

June 22, 2015

Burberry’s catwalk shows are lavish events where mere mortals like us dream of pushing our faces against the glass to peek at the spectacle within. Except, for Burberry Prorsum’s Spring/Summer 2016 menswear collection, that spectacle was set outside, soundtracked by an up-and-coming male singer named RHODES, a British musician with cheekbones carved from marble and […]

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