New York, New York. Prabal Gurung, Alexander Wang & DVF

by Katie on September 14, 2010

Prabel Gurung cut his teeth at NYC fashion house, Bill Blass. I say that as the chic, streamlined colour block outfits with sleek accessories, hair and make-up at his latest S/S ’11 show showed he was a stickler for the uptown Manhattanite.

Delivering on poppy ‘look at me’ in your face colours should come as no surprise from a man who dresses First Lady, Michelle Obama.  Her rise in the best dressed lists worldwide has been meteoric.

A sleek red ruffle front dress oozed with high class sex appeal as did the stream of bright blue, yellow and tangerine shifts all with their own distinctive detailing.  But it was the simple, super, boned and shaped one shouldered black shift with shell ddetailing on the sleeve that had me reeling.  This was intricate cutting and craftsmanship that wrapped a woman’s body in elegance and refinement.  A raw edged silk two piece jacket and carefully ruched (on one side) side slithered down the catwalk as did the camel coloured, strict, trench dress.  Devastatingly simple. 

Largely focusing on dresses, pants came by way of tangerine silk, sexy slim line versions teamed with a sleeveless cream ruffle, razor back shirt with tangerine, graphic squiggle print.  Cute.

Prabal’s continued rise is no surprise as he delivers on Vogue level chicness and understands the demands of clothes that have to ‘work it’ effortlessly for the wearer.  Add to his roster, fab Brit Designer, Nicholas Kirkwood’s sky high, multi ankle-strap shoes and you were always going to guarantee a winning collection.

At the other end of the spectrum but still rocking coolness for the hip, indie Superstar crowd, Alexander Wang sent out a show denied of blackness to a crew who are always hyper enthusiastic for his designs.   A stream of blues, pure whites and at times, questionable muted desert shades of pistachio, rust and off mint colours seemed off kilter with the purity of the intelligent design detail.  Look closely and you could see the intricacy and cleverness of each piece – wraps, ties, cut-outs and voluminous draping were all there.  These are pieces to be examined closely.
There was a deconstructed, pretty, worker aesthetic in keeping with Wang’s new vision which reeked of early ’90’s Euro design influences. Asymmetric detailing, over sized all in ones, flowing silks and large, loose jackets and waistcoats, there are hits and misses for sure.  Hits come by way of the beautiful ’30’s style, paint splattered, white silk dress and accompanying dressing gown jacket.  Though Wang showed layering aplenty, it was his stunningly simplistic one pieces that shone a spotlight on his talent whether they be dresses or jumpsuits. More Chloe Sevigny than Julia Roberts for sure, Wang continues his love affair with off kilter cerebral stars.  The main influence of  this show, though, was the attention to detail on under construction and over sized, simple, statement pieces.  Watch this space for other such designer influences come S/S ’11.

Diana von Furstenburg (a personal favourite of mine) introduced a new designer to her team, Yvan Mispeleare, a man who has previously worked with Prada, Gucci and Balenciaga.  The theme focus was ‘Goddess’ and was drawn on inspiration as wide as ancient Greece and Isadora Duncan. While some may say that DVF simply re-worked her theme, the aesthetic was true to form on the brand’s history and aesthetic.  Hooded purple pantsuits rocked as did Greek print inspired dresses and separates. 

Simple knotted draping and flowing printed wrap dresses is what DVF does best and she sent out many of these to please her loyal customers in S’S ’11.  As I say, I’m a sucker for DVF.  The show didn’t rock my word to the core but I’ll bet I’ll invest in a piece from new season.  That says it all.

Prabal Gurung pics kindly supplied by  Log onto to see more S/S ’11 show coverage. 

Please feel free to leave a comment in the box below regarding the show reports or collections.

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