Osman Reigns as King of Discreet.

by Katie on March 7, 2011

I have a confession. I loathe good taste. The homogeneous champagne interiors of international hotels, the stultifying griege of modern domestic dwellings, the clean minimalism that exists as perceived good taste in today’s society. Give me some ironic clashing kitsch and I’m as happy as a pig in another man’s muck.

Osman Yousefzada is London’s reigning king of discreet, refined minimalistic clothing. So successful that his work is displayed alongside Galliano and Zaha Hadid in London’s Design Museum. In fact, Victoria Beckham has been accused of copying his designs for her similarly stealth luxe signature label.
On paper Osman’s work should leave me cold; however his collections exude a quiet brilliance which could convert even the sternest of critics.

From the opening ivory shift with its vivid flash of Yves Klein blue, Yousefzada’s Autumn/Winter 2011 collection, inspired by artist Catherine Yass’s ‘Decommissioned’ series of light boxes, had me captivated. Once again the designer’s innovative architectural cutting techniques and draping are apparent, as are his trademark trapezoidal silhouettes. The upper body is slim and restricted whilst long flowing trousers and skirts add fluidity to the lower half. Cropped capes feature heavily, softening the sharply tailored shoulders, and balancing the volume occurring below the waist.

Heavy textural fabrics, such as cashmere, quilted brocade, matelasse, and Alpaca wool are given lightness through the designer’s use of colour, his foundation of ivory and black punctuated by bolts of the aforementioned blue, magenta, orange, and green. Leather is panelled with bright boucle, in an intriguing twist on this season’s revival of bold stripes, and fur sleeves (THE big story for next season) bring movement to a severe black A-line shift. The zip detail running through the collection is a deft fusion of form and function.

The richness of this collection, in both the tactility and the palette, creates a sensory experience which takes Yousefzada’s work beyond “just clothes”. There is artistry at work here, the likes of which Victoria Beckham can only dream of.
Review written for http://www.katiechutzpah.blogspot.com/ by Lee Clatworthy.

Images kindly supplied by http://www.trendstop.com/
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