Gucci S/S ’12 Menswear review

by Katie on June 29, 2011

This season Gucci have turn the volume down on the symphony of exotic skins and sharp tailoring which finds its way onto their catwalk, and has produced a well-mannered and relaxed collection which takes the Sixties as its jumping off point but, at the end of the day, is very much a Frida Giannini creation.
The foundation of the collection is pedestrian and strangely nondescript casual wear, mostly following Giannini’s now well-worn slim aesthetic to the letter.  Highlights include some baggy textured knits and a masterful quilted leather bomber.  But then you would expect a decent leather from a company with Gucci’s history.  Even the expected Gucci hallmarks have been downsized, with slimmer snaffles on loafers and the trademark stripes reduced to a subtle hint at the ankle.

Prince of Wales check makes an appearance again after being distressed at Emporio and dulled into submission by Versace’s brilliant brights, this time partnered with a polite eau-de-nil, whilst a plum mohair suit is a sly hint of what might’ve been.  It is with the evening wear where this collection comes alive; loud checks paired with dinner jackets, self-colour tartan Tuxedos, and dress trousers resembling jodhpurs with satin panels on the inside leg.  This is more like “it” – however this isn’t enough to save what is, essentially, a disappointment.  We’re all entitled to our off days, but these clothes have none of the youthful vigour of previous collections.

Giannini claims she was inspired by the gentleman’s club, a dinosaur of an institution which has as much place in today’s zeitgeist as the dinosaurs themselves.  Maybe it’s time for Gucci to evolve before it finds itself extinct?

Article written by Lee Clatworth (@TeamChtzpah) for Katie Chutzpah blog
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