Maison Martin Margiela’s new Untitled L’Eau

by Katie on July 14, 2011

Perfumer Daniela Andrier broke the mould when she created MMM’s Untitled – Here was an intelligent fragrance to wake up the senses, smelling of clean fresh Swiss air with a slice of metallic tinge to ensure its appeal to men as well as women.  When I first tried the fragrance at its UK launch, I described it as, “a breathe of expensive fresh air and a fashion lover’s antidote to the flowery demands of Spring.”

MMM’s Untitled then went on to win The FIFI Awards 2011 ‘Perfume Extraordinaire of the Year’ and not without good reason.  This prestigious accolade, which is blind tested by a panel, awards extraordinary visionary olfactory creations that stand out from the crowd and break new barriers in its olfactory make-up, design and creativity.

So it’s with some interest and wonder that I greeted the new ‘Untitled L’eau’, released exclusively in Selfridges in June 2011.  How could such a distinctive modern perfume be bettered or made more light?

Bearing the same bottle design but with a splash of virulent lime over the ‘leau’ wording on a trace of paint, the artisan feel is omnipresent.  This fragrance manages to refine itself with a lime green undercurrent swished with ice cool mountain brooks.  It deftly manages to combine cutting edge modernity with a notion of good old fashioned clean Spring like images, spurning floral bases and concentrating on the cool, sparkling appeal of a Summer scent.  Mandarin orange and lemon are added to crushed leaves with mossy accents while a hint of mint and essential oil of buchu penetrates through the composition which relays subtle femininity.

Andrier has yet again managed to create a unique beauty.  Untitled L’eau’s complexity and intelligence shines through and seems to be a direct reflection of this perfumer’s sophisticated, intellectual and beautiful soul. She says, “I concentrated on refreshing coolness, allowing nothing to detract from its intensity.  I simply took the existing fragrance and drenched it in water, making it more invigorating and direct while adding an element of mystery.” 

I can’t wait for her next concoction: Prada Candy.

Untitled L’eau is available exclusively at Selfridges.  £60 for 100ml.

Please let me know what you think of Untitled or Untitled L’Eau by filling in a comment in the box below. Thanks

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