Marc Jacobs – To Dior or not to Dior. That is the question.

by Katie on August 24, 2011

Hmm. To use a vernacular, I’m not exactly feeling it. And, according to the tweets of various respected fashion cognoscenti, neither are they. It’s not best fit.

It would be a strange choice indeed but an understandable one if LVMH decide to move ‘the man who is a celebrity in his own right’, Marc Jacobs, to Dior as speculated with a resulting ‘designer merry-go-round’ shift of Phobe Philo to Louis Vuitton.  Indeed, it’s probably all about the latter.

Philo’s move to Vuitton’s creative director role makes perfect sense. This is the woman who has established Celine (pictured above) once again as a luxe house to be reckoned with.  And, recent reports state that Philo would continue designing for Celine but reduce the size of the Louis Vuitton collection. LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault  likes a winner after all.  He’s earned his sizable fortune through placing carefully executed stakes on a mix of  emerging and established designers who reap substantial gains for the houses in the ensuing hoo-haa the fashion industry brings with a new focus on a the direction of a brand.  The real stakes, however, are the accessory, fragrance and beauty product lines.  These babies sell the brand and the contribute profit to the bottom line.  Mr Arnault is not a ‘throw all his cards in the air’ type of guy which makes any move he makes, considered and cautious.

Jacobs has no doubt earned his place is the top roster of international designers on the global stage with his successful lines, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs and his creative directorship of the icing on the cake, Louis Vuitton.  There’s no doubt he would be a high profile masthead to convert uninitiated users to the house of Dior, but what of its existing (couture) devotees?

Jacobs latest fetishistic ‘agent provocateur’ collection for Vuitton (pictured above), though brilliantly executed, appeared to call into question the very ethos of the Vuitton heritage.  The traditional Vuitton woman is one who strides forth in luxury garments, trailing monogrammed luggage behind her, well-heeled and well-versed in how to make an exit rather than an entrance.  Jacobs daring use of kinky silhouettes, shiny cordovan and rubber dominatrix boots may have Ms Vuitton titillated but she may prefer to hide her distinctive lights under a bushel, not parade them willy-nilly.  Ms Philo on the other hand, uses linear lines with luxe detailing and clever facets that Louis Vuitton’s customer base would adore.  Never a step out of line and one foot behind the sure-footed other.

Marc Jacobs at Dior would appeal to the daring and certainly would allow him free creative reign – his latter ‘Shanghai style’ collection for Vuitton and his hedonistic Spring ’11 ‘Studio 54 meets DVF’ style collection (pictured above) show how far he can push the boat out –  one feels as if he’s being reigned in at Louis Vuitton and what he really wants to do (as the last fetishistic collection showed) is to cut loose when what Louis Vuitton needs is a sure-footed gazelle.  Cue Phobe Philo.  

It may not be as crazy as it seems.

Catwalk images courtesy of

What do you think of the proposed moves at Dior and Louis Vuitton. Please comment in the box below.  Thanks.


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