Burberry Prorsum A/W’12 Menswear review

by Katie on January 16, 2012

Men’s fashion moves at a snail’s pace compared to the ladies. Designers are still struggling to shake off the sartorial constraints of last century, hampered by the conservative mood currently pervading the fashion world, mostly due to the stalling European economy forcing designers to play it safe.

And there isn’t a brand as conservative as Burberry. Worn down by criticism of a particularly ill-judged collection dependent on leather and studs Chris Bailey seemed to get stuck in a mid-20thCentury fug, reliant on remixing Sixties Mod styles whilst furiously plugging those entry level leather goods whose instant availability sates Burberry’s Middle East obsessives and the accountants. Thankfully Bailey’s broken free and, judging by his Autumn/Winter 2012 collection for Burberry Prorsum, seems recharged and revitalised.

The foundation of this collection is trim double-breasted tailoring layered with quilted jackets and some covetable knits, a modern take on the Sloaney hunting, shooting, and fishing gentleman farmer style of the Eighties.

A master colourist, Bailey has taken this mostly neutral base and shot this through with flashes of chartreuse, claret, cobalt blue, marigold, and olive green, trimming the traditional Burberry mac with contrasting stripes, or adding a flat cap in a particularly jaunty shade.

Slim polka dot shirts are worn with matching ties, and those controversial studs remain – on black leather gloves as a passive/aggressive finger to the designer’s critics. Following on from last Winter’s skull handle McQueen umbrellas, it seems that Prorsum’s duck’s head version might just be next season’s most stylish and witty option.
Throw in some opulent velvet suits, and the now customarily faultless outerwear, and this collection could be one of Bailey’s most critically successful for some time.
The fulll Burberry Prorsum A/W’12 Menswear show can be watched on demand HERE

Review written by Lee Clatworthy (@TeamChutzpah) for Katie Chutzpah Blog.

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{ 2 comments… read them below or add one }

helen turnbull January 17, 2012 at 7:44 am

Hello Boys. Have just discovered your blog and I’m thanking the lord for it x


Katie Chutzpah January 17, 2012 at 10:15 am

Katie here…the clue is in the name ie very definitely FEMALE. Thank you for the lovely comment.


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