Teatum Jones – The Unsung Stars of London Fashion Week

by Katie on January 4, 2012

There’s always a bit of a kerfuffle around London Fashion Week, usually just before it’s about to happen or during, due to the Pope’s visit, pre Olympics cycle trials and the general obligatory traffic chaos as the fashion herds move from venue to far flung venue.

There’s also loads of twittering around London Fashion Week’s business sponsorship (Good-bye Mercedes Benz, Hello Vodafone) and discussion of the designers being sponsored and promoted such as the NewGen category, the debate being that often these labels are well established (though no doubt still need backing to attract the international press and buyers) such as Michael van der Ham, David Koma, Holly Fulton and Craig Lawrence. My concern isn’t so much the continued support for talented designers, it’s that newer, fresher and frankly more awesome designers seem to wait in line for their turn in the spotlight. Enter stage left, Teatum Jones, one of the most outstandingly beautiful and innovative collections I have viewed at London Fashion Week’s Somerset House exhibition for many a year. 
Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones’ third collection for S/S’12 had the ability to stop me in my tracks and strike me speechless (which according to @TeamChutzpah is quite a feat). Trained at Ravensbourne College of Fashion and Central St Martin’s respectively, this team are a global fashion find who have vision, elegance and an appreciation of femininity and aesthetics.
Kimono like wrap dresses and skirts are devastatingly beautiful in their flowing finesse while intricacies such as escapist prints in purple hues and a half jacket wrap detail in the ‘Liberty dress’ or the sharp pin-pleat tucks and fold in the Olivia cocktail dress make this collection stand out. The ‘Deliverance dress’ merges the cocktail dress and coat in one piece, to couture like standards while the ‘April Dress’ fluidity and simplicity reminds me of early Spanish designer, Sybilla, with its unparallelled complexity behind the simplicity of its drape.

Delicate shades of cloudy lilac, blush pink, powdery flesh and sky blues and light taupe are as gentle on the eyes as the fluid lines and drapes that make the precise folds and geometric pattern cutting know-how seem easy when it’s sophisticated skill. Subtle prints entice but look closer and you see these as small baby fists signifying their wit and their hidden power. Their tailoring manipulates traditional menswear details throwing lapels, pockets and vents into surreal proportions of playful lengths. Teatum Jones finely balance structure and fluidity to the whisper of a baby’s breathe.

The beauty of Teatum Jones’ collection lies it its ability to include show stopping pieces with lots of feminine, wearable separates such as the Eddie biker jacket, Jimmie vest and Loretta pant.
There’s something of the very early John Galliano genius and super, razor sharp first collection of Pearce Fionda about Teatum Jones which is compliment indeed. BFC NewGen selection body take note. This Brit design duo deserve a bigger stage and soon.

Teatum Jones S/S’12 collection is available from Liberty of London.
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