DSquared2 A/W’12 Menswear review

by Katie on February 14, 2012

The future’s bright for Dean and Dan Caten, DSquared2’s diminutive design duo. Dolce & Gabbana’s decision to close their younger D&G label means that the mid-market is now wide open, and who better to fill the retail space vacated by Dolce’s diffusion line than DSquared2’s youthful mix of distressed denim, durable outerwear, and printed T-shirts? Also, in a masterstroke of timing, the reigning Queen of Pop herself, Madonna, has reignited her love affair with the brand, and this glowing reference won’t go unignored by DSquared2’s target market.
The Caten brothers love a bad boy, and for their Autumn/Winter 2012 collection revisit the campus and those students who always appeared far too cool for school, those “who work real hard having a good time” and whose precocious masculinity and maturity brought them instant popularity and romantic attention.
How this actually translates is pretty much the signature jeans, layered sporty separates, and skinny tailoring which we’ve come to expect from the brothers, with a preppy injection of plaid and Argyle patterns, on jumpers and bleached into denim shirts, brushed mohair knitwear, and slacker-style military parkas.
Don’t be fooled by the polite cashmere coats and slim square-end ties. Heavily-studded sleeves and tilted caps reminiscent of ‘The Wild One’-era Marlon Brando add a dangerous frisson to these “radical chic party boys”.
Luggage is new for next season, in luxurious skins such as suede and calf, or French tumbled leather, and features a striking military green camouflage lining. The ‘Clayton’ washed leather weekend bag is inspired by the Aviator jacket and a backpack in oiled canvas and cowhide has handles fashioned from a customised belt, which is also available separately.

Dean and Dan’s inimitable wordplay, this time taking the word “fraternal” and its multiple associations, means that this tight collection has much more zip than DSquared2’s usual Autumn/Winter offerings, which are often weighed down by necessary seasonal expectations. With a redesigned e-commerce site launched late last year, the brothers seem to be on an unstoppable roll.

Review written by Lee Clatworthy (@TeamChutzpah) for Katie Chutzpah blog.

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...

Leave a Comment

Previous post:

Next post: