Haider Ackermann Borrows from the Best for A/W’12

by Katie on March 3, 2012

Haider Ackermann has been making waves in Paris these last few seasons with avante garde yet beautifully tailored, demi-couture, trend pieces that seem to marry the ingenuity of Rei Kawakubo with the softness and global influences of Dries Van Noten. With Tilda Swinton as the cerebral poster girl of the brand, rocking the Red Carpet with style and substance like no one can, you can see why fashion mumblings have been heralding  this designer’s move to Dior.

In tones of aubergine, rust, mustard, mink, purple and russet, this season Haider Ackermann’s cut and swathe is veering towards unmistakable and becoming ever more the sophisticated and sharp option for those who wish to make a powerful discreet statement with zero hint of gaudiness or garnish.

Ackermann’s genius is that he lets the clothes speak for themselves by their cuts, folds and combination of texture and colour – at no point does he feel the need to overdose in embellishment. Adding unrequired florid complications to intelligent simplicity is an anathema to his vision. This is muted modernism with rich seams and exactly how fashion should move forward. And leather is key to his story as is the build of texture and proportion – wool drape jackets over leather peplums atop satin.

Ackermann’s look is long, lean and svelte for A/W’12 with an emphasis on easy dressing for all his intricacies. Short, round shouldered jackets with long straight hobble skirts, Thierry Mugler like, jutting peplum skirt suits with long folds in leather and deep plunge, deftly cut shirts worn with flared pants, all with leather gloves, combined warrier-business woman with couture maven. 

Ackermann’s look is strong yet he combines many identifiable elements of past designers’ genius which cannot help but being recognised. Hints of Galliano like gentle folds emphasising sleeves and shoulders add femininity while Ackermann’s traditional kimono pleating and high wrap necks also hinted at another romantic maverick – Romeo Gigli. Large roll collars with exaggerated shoulders, leg o’mutton sleeves, high waisted pants and colour & texture clash also all shouted the former Italo maverick’s name while the complicated drape and fold swagger so beloved of early Galliano and Kawakubo broke through. 

Yet Haider Ackermann’s direction is to be applauded and lauded as he is one of the few outside the mold, combing sheer unadulterated, understated beauty and femininity with commercialist mores. This is a designer who yearns for intelligent women to wear his breed of intelligent clothes. If there were only more with his values.

Catwalk pics courtesy of www.style.com

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