Serge Lutens releases L’Eau Froide

by Katie on May 5, 2012

Serge Lutens fame comes from two main sources – as the innovative and creative art director and photographer for Japanese brand, Shiseido, during the ’80s, breaking new ground in how beauty and art were perceived and truly adding ‘art’ to the mix and secondly, as the creative driving force and co-creator behind the niche ‘hunt it down’ fragrance house, Serge Lutens.  

Serge Lutens perfumes are known and appreciated for their use of rare, rich ingredients, mixed together in a modernist fuse of over-indulgence and refined giddiness. Lutens always manages to cut a thrust and carve out a place in your heart with creations such as Ambre Sultan, Fleurs d’Oranger and Arabie with its raw heart and base ingredients every bit as intoxicating and seductive as the names.

It is Lutens’ ultra modern approach to be avante-garde and to defy convention that has seen his brand grow with global recognition. Lutens likes ro cock a snoop at many and none more so than in his latest release, L’Eau Froide, which is far from the madding crowd of Lutens other works in so far as it truly is out in the cold.
Lutens, to me, has always meant warmth, sensuality and difference but L’Eau Froide is defiantly more of an aquired taste. It is unremittingly contemporary in its mix of cold, crystal, mint tinged, clear air and musky frankincense which is meant to signify slipping on the freshness of a cold white shirt that’s been dried outdoors (no doubt in a chilly climate). However, though bracing this may be and wildly different, the mix of cold clear ice/glass and the smell of dampened cool frankincense is akin to visiting a catholic church (when not catholic) and breathing in the stale air of cold religious piety and aloofness. There’s a disdainfulness about this fragrance that defies logic. The raw ingredients, contrasting and appealing, sound like they’d work but in actuality, the feeling is of wearing tea gone cold and applying to wrists.

Yes, we know it’s not meant to be sexy or alluring in the traditional sense and for one to select a signature fragrance like this is more a statement of cool self perception and art than sexual come hither but I’m trying desperately to see it’s ‘fit’.  It’s rather ‘browsing Dover Street Market while wearing Issey Miyake’ or holing oneself up in ultra contemporary modernist warehouse rather than hotel bars and finesse. I don’t deny, I’m lost to it’s natural appeal. A first for me with  Serge Lutens.

L’Eau Froide Eau de Parfum is currently available at selected stores including Harvey Nichols, Debenhams and Space NK. £60 for 50ml EDP and £88 for 100ml EDP.
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