Emilio Pucci Resort 2013 by Peter Dundas

by Katie on June 14, 2012

Peter Dundas has worked wonders for the Pucci label taking it from the well known and covetable clashing prints (let’s face it girls, we all want a bit of Pucci in our lives) to a well mannered but still flashy outpouring of typically Italo sophistication. Pucci woman strides forth and isn’t scared to show her power or her swagger.

For Fall/Winter ’12/13, Dundas cut it up a bit, wuite literally, with slash and chiffon, squishy reptile print leathers and fakes and still lashings of the Emilio Pucci print that has made the house a byword for ‘you’ve made it if you own the print’ paired with Dundas’ inimitable ’70s Boho chic style. In this show, however, Dundas re-introduced a Pucci version of YSL’s ‘Le Smoking’ tuxedo in pastels and white, a great move to bring the house bang up to date.
And now, our Pucci girl has gone Resort. But what does this mean? Well, here, she adds a classic, sportswear approach to dressing with simplicity. With nods to late 1960’s era Veruschka and ’70s Lauren Hutton, this wanderlust excursion ventures into the future with new techniques and reworked silhouettes. Dundas’ looks are sharp edged and urban cool, yet grounded in the earthy and elemental with colors of military khaki, black, and navy laced with sunflower yellow, lotus, begonia, and hydrangea green.
The Pucci girl’s travel wanderlust kicks off with Army/Navy issue safari jackets, trousers, and shirt dresses done up in crisp tailored cotton or soft suede. Many pieces are embellished with intricate floral and Asian embroidery motifs, a nod to the 90’s when customising military surplus finds was all the rage.
Dundas carries through some men’s wear influences with a sportswear-driven mentality, and sensibility for tailored ease. A slick trench coat has been relaxed with oversized lapels and a sash belt. A tuxedo jacket deformalised with its lush hibiscus color.
The idea of camouflage is given an abstract restructure as botanicals that evoke the saturated colors of the Emilio Pucci maison. A magnified, wandering yellow orchid on a silk pyjama, or splashed over a caftan would blend into the most exotic of landscapes.
In the tradition of the house the technique of print is evolved, yet restrained. A body hugging dress in smooth, pliant leather has a paper thin lace applique that simulates the signature swirls of the Emilio Pucci archive.
Concepts of animal print and skin textures (as per the Fall’12 collection) sidestep the cliché – Embroidered white raffia and platinum bugle beads on a shift tunic dress simulate the texture of crocodile skin. A silk jumpsuit done in a pixelated floral is mixed with crocodile jacquard. A fitted jacket and army skirt in crocodile embossed suede are not what they seem from afar, and to the wearer they are soft, super light and richly textured.

Dundas is taking his house vision further. Roll on the next collection.
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